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To find a quick summary with prices on everything we make, go to the secure web store by selecting "Order On-Line".
How to Use the Store.

The secure web store is the best place to enter your order. It gives you an instant email invoice summary with order number, and NO CHARGES are made to your bank card automatically... I review each order first, so I can contact you if I don't think you ordered things that work together or might have a lower cost suggestion to do the same thing. You can use VISA or MasterCard, PayPal, wire transfer, or send a check. Or just use it as way to get a quote: add thing you want to your cart to see the total.

I encourage you to use the web store because it is faster, very safe, and doesn't get "lost in the mail" or incorrectly heard over the phone (too many guns going off by my ears without hearing protection, during my days in the Navy, back in the 60's!). Also, the web store is there 24/7, takes no days off and doesn't step out to lunch... you can ALWAYS place an order there, which will be reviewed carefully before it is filled.
Select your swaging tools:
In brief, any bullet from .120 to .458 diameter, that is 1.3 inches long or shorter, and is made of normal jacketed or unjacketed lead or powdered metals, can be swaged using the -S type dies and the CSP-1 S-press.

Any bullet that is longer, made of harder materials, or larger in diameter, can usually be made with the CSP-2 Mega Mite press, or the CHP-1 Hydro Press, with -H type dies.

Which set of dies? Depends on the bullet design. Select the button labeled "What DO I Need?", or "Build a Kit" on the main page. Select "Starting Setup" for a package appropriate to most basic bullet designs. The buttons lead to pages about the things you want to know. Most of the flat base lead or jacketed bullet designs use the FJFB-3-S 3-die set, or the FJFB-3-H 3-die set.

Here's the easy way to get all your questions answered at your leisure, even if my phone is so tied up with callers that you can't get anything but the infuriating answering system...

... just select one of the blue button options, to answer your questions on how to make a bullet, what it costs, and what you need. You will find it on the main page. It may take a little time because there are so many options...I've been developing this equipment for people for over 45 years. There isn't a bullet you can imagine for which we have not made tools! Or if there is, we can probably do it anyway.

If you want to find a specific item, use the SEARCH box. Type in a key word or phrase such as "reloading press", or "paper patch" or "50 BMG" or "Subsonic". That will bring up pages that talk about these matters, and you can usually locate what you want if you glance through the list.

Don't feel you have to read everything. Just focus on the kind of bullet you want to make. That will eliminate 90% of the need to look at other pages. For an even quicker but less detailed view of equipment and prices, look at SwageDies.com, which is our on-line webstore. It is ideal for browsing. You don't have to buy anything to use it to accumulate a shopping cart with a total of things in it to get a quick "quote".

Most bullets require these items:
  • A Swaging Press (which in limited instances might be your existing reloading press).
    • Press depends on (a) size of bullet and (b) degree of convenience and future expansion
    • Any larger press makes the smaller calibers as well as the large ones.
    • Calibers over .458, longer than 1.3 inches, or using hard to form materials need larger presses.

  • One or more swaging dies in a "set" (a complete set may be from 1 to 6 dies, used in succession).
    • The number of dies in a set depends on the steps needed to make that design.
    • All "sets" are for one diameter of bullet, but most can produce any weight in reason.
    • Most jacketed bullets in a given caliber use a PF-1 point form die to control nose shape. This is part of the set except for semi-wadcutter styles. They use a punch with a cavity in it for the final nose shape. Either the final die or punch can be changed to make a different shape.
    • If you click the "How to... build a swaging kit" or "How to... choose tools" above, you can follow the flow path depending on your answer, to assemble the proper set of equipment for any bullet.

  • Bullet cores - the "filling" of the bullet
    • Cores are the main component or filling. Normally this is soft lead. But you can use powdered metals, plastics, and other materials.
    • Cores can most quickly be made from lead wire (LW-10 or LW-40) and a PCS-1 or PCS-2 core cutter.
    • Your own scrap lead may be used with a CM-4A 4-cavity, adjustable weight core mold.
    • Corbin also provides tooling for powdered metal, non lead bullets, and polymer "bullet balls" for hyper-fast, ultra-light bullets.

  • Bullet jackets - the "skin" of a bullet.
    • An all-lead bullet does not use this. It can be made with 1 die in most cases.
    • Jackets are available directly from Corbin in many popular calibers
    • Available jackets can be "drawn down" with a JRD-1 jacket reducer to make other jackets.
    • Available jackets can be trimmed to shorter length with the ET-2 jacket trim die.
    • You can manufacture your own jackets from:
      • Copper tubing, with the CTJM-1 tubing jacket maker
      • Copper strip, with one of several JMK-1 or JMK-2 strip drawing sets
      • Fired empty cases, for certain calibers (especially 224 and 243)

  • Lubrication - Corbin Swage Lube CSL-2 or CSL-16 (pint size)

  • Any special accessory items or components specific to a design, such as:
    • ULD Metal Tip Inserts
    • Jacket trim dies
    • Jacket serrators for faster expansion
    • Jacket reducing dies
    • Bullet reducing dies
    • Polymer "bullet balls" for special balance/weight or expansion features
    • Funnel die/punch units for powdered metal, lead-free designs
    • Optional, additional shapes or punches for X-cut cores, hollow cavities, etc.
    • Cannelure tools or knurling tools.
Armed with this basic guide, you can quickly select the tools and supplies for any given design, and then email me to confirm and get more details. Please remember that email usually is the quickest way to reach me. I try to answer at least 300 emails every single day, and sometimes, I even succeed!